Leaving a shirt untucked can sound like an afterthought. In current menswear, it is becoming a precise proposition about proportion. Vogue saw crisp cotton poplin worn almost pointedly untucked over trousers or skirts at Thom Browne's SS27 show in Milan. The house's own collection text describes airy poplin layers and weightless tailoring; AP and Wallpaper* place that show within a season that does not abandon construction, but makes it lighter. The logic is already reaching product: FashionUnited reports paper-touch lightweight poplin and intentionally shorter shirt bodies designed for untucked wear in SS27. With a long men's skirt, this is more than a comfort decision. The shirt hem creates a second horizontal line above the skirt, softens the waist and allows the long vertical below to begin with composure. When the proportions are right, the result is neither shapeless nor theatrical. It is clear, masculine in construction and at ease. Men Can.
July 25, 2026 · Editorial · Poplin / long men's skirt / untucked shirt / SS27 / Men Can
Editorial
1) Untucked does not mean uncontrolled
The question is not whether the shirt enters the waistband, but where its hem lands. The useful zone sits between the high hip and the skirt's widest point. It conceals the waistband without cutting the leg short. A clean, relatively straight hem feels more current than long, floating shirt tails. The collar can stay open, but the shoulder should still fit. Apparent ease then becomes an intentional frame.
Editorial
2) Poplin gives the softer line resistance
Fine poplin is particularly effective here: dense enough to read as one clear plane, light enough for summer and dry enough to sit beside pleats or a wrap without shine. White creates graphic contrast against charcoal; pale blue calms ecru; graphite links black layers. The shirt should not cling to the skirt. A small pocket of air between cloth and body produces the controlled lightness that defines the best SS27 tailoring.
Editorial
3) Skirt shape and shirt hem must collaborate
A straight hem works above sharply set pleats because its horizontal line orders the movement below. A quiet wrap can take a slightly curved edge and rolled sleeves. With a narrow column skirt, the shirt should be shorter and closer to the body so the silhouette does not become a block. The rule is simple: the greater the skirt's volume, the cleaner and more compact the upper layer should be.
Editorial
4) A third layer determines the time of day
An untucked shirt is not confined to casual dressing. A navy blazer makes white and charcoal city-ready; a cropped leather blouson sharpens graphite and black after dark. In Florence, the shirt can stand alone, while at Lake Como a lightweight suede overshirt carried over the shoulder adds colour and texture. The jacket should either finish decisively above the shirt or frame it completely. An accidental middle hem unsettles the line.
Editorial
5) Men Can: authority need not be cinched
Classic menswear has long equated order with a visible waist, a belt and a tucked shirt. The long men's skirt offers another kind of order: a calm expanse, an overlapping upper edge and movement generated by cloth. This is not a rejection of tailoring, but an evolution of it. Nino Cappello joins Italian precision to the freedom of choosing rules for their effect rather than their familiarity.
Styling
Styling Box: Four hems, four long lines
Each combination shows how colour, shirt length and a third layer can organise a long men's skirt.
Milan: White + charcoal pleats
Crisp white poplin shirt ending at the high hip, long charcoal pleated skirt, navy single-breasted blazer, black socks and polished loafers.
The pale horizontal cleanly separates the formal torso from the long, moving skirt line.
Florence: Pale blue + ecru wrap
Pale-blue poplin shirt with rolled sleeves, long ecru linen-blend wrap, navy socks and espresso loafers.
The softer hem follows the wrap without obscuring its disciplined overlap.
Paris: Graphite + black column
Compact graphite poplin shirt, long black column skirt, cropped leather blouson, charcoal socks and narrow ankle boots.
The short leather layer fixes the shoulder; the shirt hem adds a calm matte step beneath it.
Como: Stripes + sand pleats
Blue-and-white striped poplin shirt, long sand linen pleated skirt, tobacco suede as an extra layer, ribbed socks and leather sandals.
Fine stripes lengthen the torso while sand and pleats build the summer foundation.
Men Can: The strongest long skirt is the one that pairs calm tailoring with a controlled line.
Sources
In brief
Thom Browne: The house's official SS27 account describes weightless and half-lined tailoring, airy poplin shirting with detachable collars and cuffs, and skirts integrated into a complete menswear system.
Vogue Runway: Vogue notes that crisp cotton-poplin shirts were worn deliberately untucked over trousers or skirts, while structured tailoring remained light enough for summer.
AP News: AP identifies clean lines, sartorial ventilation and lighter tailoring as Milan SS27 priorities, directly linking Thom Browne's layered summer suiting with pleated skirts for men.
Wallpaper*: Wallpaper* records Browne's emphasis on strong tailoring made lighter through poplin shirting, half-lined jackets and airy layers, with pleated skirts treated as part of an adaptable total wardrobe.
FashionUnited: The SS27 product report highlights paper-touch lightweight poplin and deliberately shorter shirt bodies designed to be worn untucked, showing that the runway gesture is moving into practical menswear.
Vogue: Vogue's season overview places breezily cut, draped tailoring among SS27's clearest directions, supporting a broader move from rigid formality toward composed ease.
Explore long men's skirts, precise wraps and Italian proportion in the Nino Cappello shop and lookbook.
Milan: White + charcoal pleats
Florence: Pale blue + ecru wrap
Paris: Graphite + black column
Como: Stripes + sand pleats