NINO CAPPELLO
Journal · 15 September 2026 · A/W 2026

Knit sets the rhythm

This autumn makes knitwear visible again. Fair Isle, Nordic motifs, argyle and abstract intarsia do more than decorate a look: they organise it. With a men’s skirt, the formula is strongest when pattern remains concentrated above and the hem answers below as one calm, continuous plane.

Man in Milan wearing a Fair Isle sweater with a knee-length graphite pleated men’s skirt.
Milan · Fair Isle and pleats
Compact charcoal-and-ivory Fair Isle crewneck + knee-length graphite pleated men’s skirt + oxblood knee socks + black Derbys.

1. Keep the pattern above

GQ’s current fall update registers a return to expressive knit shapes, while Who What Wear identifies Fair Isle, coloured V-necks and half-zips among the week’s signals. Vogue had already placed ski sweaters at the centre of A/W 2026 menswear. None of this requires alpine costume. A compact field across chest and shoulder is enough. Waistband, skirt front and footwear stay quiet beneath it, creating rhythm without visual noise.

2. Volume needs a boundary

A substantial sweater should not drift over the waistband by accident. With knee-length pleats, the rib finishes exactly at the waist and the folds open below it. A utility wrap can take a slightly longer half-zip as long as its front overlap remains visible. A fine V-neck sits lightly inside a midi waistband. The long column needs the leanest knit: a close mock neck with pattern confined to shoulders and chest.

A strong knit pattern needs no second story beneath it.

3. Four patterns, four functions

Fair Isle gathers small motifs into a closed horizontal band and gives shorter pleats stability. A Nordic pattern has more force and suits the dry utility of a wrap skirt. Argyle builds an elegant diagonal that sharpens a softer midi. At night, abstract intarsia can read as a restrained trace of light. Dries Van Noten demonstrates the season’s range through geometric knits, Fair Isle arcs and colour; Nino Cappello translates that signal into four original skirt proportions.

4. Colour requires discipline

Charcoal and ivory create Milan’s formal base, with oxblood repeated only at the socks. Copenhagen links moss, sand and ink to olive-black utility cotton. In Florence, rust, tobacco and ecru warm a sand midi. Paris stays midnight black and permits cobalt and silver only as a narrow shoulder drawing. Wallpaper* stresses the season’s newly streamlined calm. That restraint stops patterned knitwear from becoming nostalgic or theatrical.

5. Men Can: wear the familiar differently

Knitwear is among the most familiar elements in a man’s wardrobe. It neither explains nor neutralises the men’s skirt; the two pieces meet as equals. AP shows pleated skirts for men and more open gender codes within current menswear. Nino Cappello responds through Italian construction: a lucid waistband, controlled cloth weight and an exact hem. Men Can means treating familiarity as a point of departure, not a boundary.

Four knit rhythms, four exact hems

Concentrate pattern on the upper body, repeat at most one colour in sock or shoe, and keep every skirt front closed and clearly readable.

Man in Milan wearing a Fair Isle sweater with a knee-length graphite pleated men’s skirt.
Milan · Fair Isle and pleats
Compact charcoal-and-ivory Fair Isle crewneck + knee-length graphite pleated men’s skirt + oxblood knee socks + black Derbys.
Man in Copenhagen wearing a Nordic half-zip with a below-knee olive-black utility wrap skirt.
Copenhagen · Nordic utility
Moss, sand and ink wool half-zip + below-knee olive-black utility wrap skirt + graphite rib socks + black lace-up boots.
Man in Florence wearing an argyle V-neck with a sand midi wrap men’s skirt.
Florence · Argyle and midi
Fine rust, cream and tobacco argyle V-neck over ecru poplin + upper-calf sand midi wrap skirt + espresso socks + dark suede boots.
Man in Paris wearing an abstract intarsia sweater with an ankle-length black column men’s skirt.
Paris · Intarsia after dark
Black mock neck with a narrow cobalt-and-silver abstract intarsia + ankle-length black column skirt + black socks + polished oxblood boots.

Sources in brief

GQ and Who What Wear provide the current September cue; Vogue, Dries Van Noten, Wallpaper* and AP ground knit, silhouette and the men’s skirt in actual A/W 2026 menswear.

Set your own rhythm

Discover modern men’s skirts, Italian construction and looks in which knit and hem form one assured line.