Movement at the hem

1. Movement becomes material

Who What Wear’s immediate post-show report identifies elongated fringe, beaded chains and tassels at hems and on scarves as one of Copenhagen SS27’s defining details. Fringe also crossed into the week’s street style as a lighter response to winter’s tasselled scarf. What matters is not ornament alone but behaviour in motion: a calm plane acquires a visible delay. The cloth stops and the threads continue for an instant. That small difference in timing makes a long skirt feel alive without surrendering its vertical authority.

2. One intervention is enough

Nino Cappello’s interpretation begins with restraint. A narrow fringe follows the outer side seam; a braided belt finishes in two compact tassels; a detachable beaded tab sits at one hip. The skirt front remains closed, long and unmistakable. The result avoids costume and cliché. Wallpaper* noted spangled fringe scarves and loose, jangling belts within Celine’s SS27 menswear proposition. Vogue Italia, meanwhile, described interchangeable tassels on Santoni loafers as a meeting of craft, individuality and contemporary menswear. The lesson is useful: character belongs in the detail; construction holds the line.

The strongest fringe is not the loudest. It is the one whose movement appears at precisely the right moment.

3. Four materials, four rhythms

Silk fringe against tropical wool moves quickly and quietly, suiting the Milan formula in ivory and charcoal. A braided cotton cord with compact tassels feels more functional beside a technical blouson. Matte linen macramé brings visible handwork to Florence without overwhelming the olive surface. For Paris, a short tab of jet-black glass beads is enough to catch evening light. Weight must be calibrated in every case: the detail should swing, never drag on the cloth or disturb the skirt’s fall.

4. Tailoring supplies the frame

Associated Press summarised Milan SS27 through clean lines, lighter tailoring and sartorial ventilation. That reduction is the right counterweight to a moving edge. Jackets remain cropped or finish at the hip, shoulders stay soft and colour is kept tonal. Ribbed socks extend the skirt into the shoe. Polished boots discipline silk and glass beads; matte lace-ups ground technical cords; dark-brown ankle boots pick up the warmth of suede and linen. Because the hem already speaks, shirt, jewellery and bag need no second performance.

5. Men Can: craft beyond categories

Fringe belongs to no single era, place or gender identity. It can be a protective edge, a finish, a record of handwork or simply an impulse of movement. Serious modern menswear does not turn that history into caricature. It names the material and construction, uses the device selectively and allows the wearer to decide how visible it should be. “Men Can” means a man can show movement without losing composure. Made in Italy means the knot, heading tape, density and internal finish are considered as carefully as waistband, overlap and hem weight.