The tie is returning not as an obligation, but as a line placed with intent. Recent SS27 reporting from Milan and Paris records narrow silks, printed cravats, loose unknotted ties and a new kind of prep that balances tradition with personal freedom. Beside a long men’s skirt, this small length of fabric gains a precise purpose: it guides the eye from face to shirt to waistband, while pleats or a wrap construction work laterally. The result is tension between vertical line and generous volume — composed, masculine in construction and open to individuality. For Nino Cappello, this is not a nostalgic dress code. It is a modern styling device, shaped by Italian care and worn with the confidence of “Men Can”.
16 July 2026 · Editorial · Tie / Cravat / Long men’s skirt / New prep / SS27
Editorial
1) Punctuation, not uniform
A tie no longer has to announce office status. Ralph Lauren’s SS27 Milan show used narrow ties, printed cravats and neckwear beyond its expected function; Paul Smith let ties hang loose, as though undone at the end of a hot day. Their authority now comes from incompletion. The tie does not close the outfit; it introduces what follows. A long skirt can then take up space through volume, pleat and movement.
Editorial
2) A vertical line steadies volume
A long pleated or wrap skirt presents a broad, moving plane. A narrow tie gives it a calm counterpoint. Keep the blade visible against the shirt and let it end just above the waistband. Too short and it feels merely decorative; too long and it competes with the skirt front. Perfect symmetry is less important than a clear visual axis.
Editorial
3) Three ways to release formality
A loosened four-in-hand keeps the tie recognisably classic while removing stiffness. Under a V-neck, only a concentrated strip remains — ideal with cricket or rugby knitwear. Left unknotted beneath a softly draped jacket, black silk becomes an evening line. A finely patterned cravat brings colour and Italian ease to linen. Each choice works when the rest of the look stays precise.
Editorial
4) Material sets the attitude
Matte silk, grenadine and dry wool-silk sit naturally with tailoring and pleated wool. Smooth satin is powerful after dark but needs quieter partners by day. Printed cravats suit linen, poplin and suede when the scale stays small. Neckwear should complete the skirt’s texture, not fight it. Nino Cappello’s Made-in-Italy perspective begins with handle, drape and a clean waistband — never with empty spectacle.
Editorial
5) Confidence is measured
A men’s skirt and tie require no ironic gesture. A clean collar, a credible knot, well-kept shoes and a controlled palette are enough. Restraint is what makes the proposition assured: the skirt extends menswear, while the tie anchors it in familiar language. Here, “Men Can” means choosing how tradition is worn rather than discarding it.
Styling
Styling box: Four lines, four cities
Four practical ways to bring neckwear and a long men’s skirt together, from high summer to evening.
Milan: Burgundy over navy
Long navy pleats, ivory linen shirt, tobacco blazer, narrow burgundy silk tie, navy socks and brown loafers.
The loosened knot softens the tailoring; its dark vertical runs directly into the waistband.
London: A tie beneath cricket knit
Charcoal wrap skirt, pale-blue Oxford shirt, navy-and-cream tie, forest V-neck, short coat, knee socks and Derby boots.
Only a focused section of tie shows; socks and boots give the new prep a grounded finish.
Paris: Black, deliberately unknotted
Fluid black wrap skirt, dove-grey shirt, unknotted black silk tie, softly cut double-breasted jacket and narrow boots.
The open silk extends the skirt front and replaces every louder evening accessory.
Florence: Cravat with linen
Sand linen box pleats, white short-sleeve shirt, olive waistcoat, rust patterned cravat, cream socks and suede loafers.
The small print adds warmth; waistcoat and belt keep the summer silhouette constructed.
Men Can: A tie is strongest when it signals not obedience, but a line of one’s own.
Sources
Today’s reading
Today’s research draws on reporting published between 19 June and 2 July 2026 around the SS27 shows in Milan and Paris.
The Guardian: narrow silk ties, cravats and unexpected uses for neckwear at Ralph Lauren.
Vogue Runway: craft, utility, prep and neckwear as “new-school old school”.
Wallpaper*: Paul Smith’s loose, unknotted ties as a picture of relaxed summer tailoring.
Vogue: scarves, ties and freely draped tailoring among SS27’s key ideas.
ELLE Australia: Thom Browne’s boxy blazer over a skirt as one of the season’s defining style moves.
Explore long skirts, wrap silhouettes and Italian construction in the Nino Cappello shop and lookbook.
Milan: Burgundy over navy
London: A tie beneath cricket knit
Paris: Black, deliberately unknotted
Florence: Cravat with linen